Wooden lining is beautiful and environmentally friendly. Ceilings and walls in baths, saunas, country houses and city apartments are decorated in a similar way. The material has a lot of advantages, and one of the most significant is the ease of installation, if, of course, high-quality materials were used, so you should find a responsible person in advance supplier of fasteners for lining and, of course, the lining itself. Today, clamps, nails and even staples are used to fasten the material. What type of fasteners for the lining will be most appropriate in each specific case?
# 1. Features of installing lining
The lining is recommended to be mounted on a pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is allowed to install the lining without constructing a frame, but the lathing still helps to extend the life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer in the space between the lining and the main surface for laying heat-insulating material.
The lathing is fixed in 50-60 cm increments; it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for unevenness in the base ceiling or wall. The frame can be of a metal profile or a bar. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to stop the choice on a bar. It’s all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. The lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal in the volume does not change, and if the profile is rigidly fixed to the surface, the lining can lead. Of course, this risk persists when using a wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.
Between the bars of the lathing, you can lay a heat-insulating material, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for baths and saunas.
You can mount the lining in one of the following ways:
horizontally. This is probably one of the most popular lining installation options. Some types of material (quarter lining and “American”) can only be mounted in this way. If we are talking about arranging a steam room, then it is necessary to place the slats with the thorn up. Only in this way will condensate and water slide freely along the wall. In this case, the installation of the lining begins from the ceiling;
vertically. This arrangement allows you to visually raise the ceiling in the room, it is often used in baths. Installation of lamellas starts from any angle, the first element is installed with the groove outward. When fixing the lining to the ceiling, it is recommended to work in the direction away from the light in order to avoid the appearance of shadows between the boards;
diagonally. This is a decorative styling option that is often used when decorating walls and ceilings in living rooms;
combined and patterned laying involves the installation of lamellas in different directions, so that you can get an original pattern. Unlike all the others, this installation option requires proper skill and preparation, so it is not suitable for beginners.
The direction of the battens of the lathing will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.
# 2. Types of fasteners for lining
There are several traditional ways to fasten the lining:
- with the help of kleimers. This is the most gentle way, it allows you to maintain the integrity of the lining;
- with nails that are driven into a groove or tongue. This technology requires more caution from the contractor, since there is a risk of damaging the lining;
- through fastening of self-tapping screws through the lining;
- fastening with a construction stapler.
Regardless of what type of fastening is chosen, it is recommended to mount the first and last boards using nails with small heads – they can be easily drowned in the body of the lining. Fasten the lining first to the middle bar, then to the two extreme ones, carefully controlling the vertical or horizontal. Then there is an attachment to the intermediate bars.
No. 3. Fastening the lining with clamps
Kleimers allow you to install the lining, completely preserving its integrity. They are metal plates with a tongue and holes. The tongue is designed to hold the lining, and thanks to the holes, the clip is attached to the frame. Such simple, but at the same time ingenious, fasteners allow hidden fixing of the lining – no fasteners will be visible from the outside. At the same time, the wood is protected from cracks that may appear when nails are driven into it, and the entire installation process is quite simple.
The main difference between all clearers on the market is the height of the tongue. The choice of this parameter depends on what type of lining will be mounted: for Euro lining, you need brackets with a tongue 4 mm high, for block house lining – 6 mm. As for the material, the clamps are made mainly of galvanized iron and steel. The consumption of this fastener depends on many factors, but on average about 20 clamps are used for 1 m2 of lining.
The sequence of work is as follows:
- a kleimer is installed on the lining spike;
- the board is mounted in its place, fixation is carried out by nails or screws that pass through the holes on the cleat and enter the crate. As a rule, there are three such holes on the element, but only two of them are allowed to be used;
- the cleaimer tongue is thin enough to insert the next clapboard into the groove of the previous one with the cleaimer already installed. The process is repeated over and over again. Recall that the first and last boards are best fixed with nails.
It is necessary to install the boards tightly to each other, leaving no visible gaps. The last board will most likely have to be trimmed to fit the width of the board. In baths and saunas, it is recommended to retreat from the ceiling and floor by 2-3 cm so that the wood can expand calmly.
Cleamers provide a detachable fastening, so in which case the lining can be easily dismantled and the coating assembled in a new place.
No. 4. Fastening the lining with nails
It is easier and quicker to fix the lining with the help of nails, because there is no need to use any intermediate fasteners, but there is a risk of splitting the board, so you should be prepared for a certain amount of marriage. For fastening, nails 5-6 cm long are used, they are driven in with a step of 25-30 cm, so a lot of fastening material will be needed.
Typically, nails are driven into the groove at a 45 degree angle. To reduce the likelihood of damage to the lining, the nail is carefully pushed in the right place with a hammer, and then hammered in with a blunt gouge. An alternative is to pre-drill the holes. During installation, the nail head must be well drowned into the tree so that the next lining element can be inserted into the groove without hindrance.
It is allowed to drive a nail at right angles into the tongue.
No. 5. Fastening the lining with a stapler
This is a variation on the theme of the previous method: instead of nails and a doboinik, a construction stapler is used here, which has enough power to drive the staple into the lining. This device makes the work much easier, but it requires some skill, so it’s better to practice first. If everything is done correctly, the bracket will fit tightly into the wood, without interfering with the installation of the next lining element. The stapler can also be used for fastening with clamps.
No. 6. Through fastening of the lining with self-tapping screws
Through fastening is usually used for mounting the last lining boards. In this way, lining is also attached in steam rooms and saunas. In this case, the fastening element does not enter the tenon, but passes through the entire lining. This is a fairly reliable and durable method of installation, but if we are talking about using it in a bath, then the wood must be covered with a protective compound and do not forget to renew it every three months.
Holes are pre-made in the boards, and then, using a screwdriver, fasteners are screwed in, which should go as deep as possible. To cover the resulting hole, wooden pins are used, however, over time, all attachment points can become noticeable, no matter how carefully and regularly the protective equipment is applied.
This method has one interesting variation. Some specialists hammer nails into the lathing, but not to the full length, so that in the future it will be possible to plant the lining on them. The length of the protruding elements should be less than the thickness of the lining. The heads of the nails are bitten off, and the lining panels are neatly stuffed onto the protruding nails with a mallet. The result is an aesthetic surface.
No. 7. Tips for fixing lining
Over the years of working with clapboard, specialists have accumulated decent experience and are ready to share tips:
it is better to fasten the lining to the crate, even if the main surface does not have serious drops and irregularities;
- before installing the lathing, it is better to treat the walls of the house with an antiseptic, as well as the bars for the frame and the lining itself;
- before installing the lining, it is better to withstand it for a day or two in the room where it will be installed;
- if in the future the lining will be painted, then do not forget to treat the surface with a primer;
- with a horizontal installation, the lining is installed from the bottom up, but in this case the uppermost trimmed board can spoil the appearance of the finish, therefore, today, more and more often, the finish begins with the fastening of the upper element. If the last bottom board needs to be trimmed, then it will be covered with a floor plinth.
The process of fixing the lining cannot be called too difficult, but nevertheless it requires accuracy, attentiveness and certain skills, so if you do not have complete confidence in your abilities, it is better to immediately call professionals for help and not spoil the material.