The interior decoration of a house or apartment is always a difficult and time-consuming task, foreshadowing a lot of controversial points where it will be necessary to make certain decisions due to interior design, practicality, or even, simply, the cost of certain materials.
And when it comes to flooring, then the next such choice will make itself felt. In fact, there are a huge variety of options, but the most basic among modern ones can be considered laminate or ceramic tiles. Parquet floors and linoleum flooring are almost relics of the past, and yet today linoleum is used quite often.
Most of those who started repairs, often (especially if it is not too large-scale) make it themselves or under the strict guidance of “knowledgeable” relatives or friends, and sometimes, without resorting to the help of specialists or at least the Internet, they do many things in spite of technology … And since we are talking about linoleum, then you can often come across the fact that some owners have it nailed, someone has it set on double-sided tape, and who just adheres to the baseboards around the perimeter.
Naturally, such an approach takes place, but all this is not very correct, since over time this can result in surface deformation and the appearance of unwanted bubbles and other distortions. It is for these reasons that it is best to lay linoleum with glue.
# 1. The main types of glue
The most commonly used and, one might say, the main types of adhesive for linoleum are dispersion (water-based) and reactive (based on epoxy resin or polyurethane). But there is also a contact type of adhesive mixture that is applied to both surfaces to provide a stronger adhesion between them.
In order to understand which glue will be best for you to use, let’s look at each of them in a little more detail.
This type of glue is considered the most common and most commonly used. It is advisable to use it if gluing is done on a concrete floor, cement screed or wooden parquet.
Also, if your choice fell on this type of glue, then you probably already know that it is not resistant to moisture, so the room in which you are going to glue the linoleum must be absolutely dry, and the temperature of the surfaces to be glued should not be less than, than 15 degrees Celsius. The total loss of its properties for the glue begins below the mark of +5 degrees Celsius.
The composition of such glue is absolutely environmentally friendly, and, of course, is permissible for use in residential premises, and during operation it emits a faint, barely perceptible smell. In addition, it includes various additives such as chalk and latex, acrylic and some other components. Also, this adhesive composition is more effective for application over the entire area of linoleum, since its fixing force is not too high.
Dispersion adhesive mixtures can be divided into several types:
bustilate – used for gluing felt linoleum and is characterized by a rather high strength, also does not have a special unpleasant odor, and the drying time is about 24 hours;
- for reliable laying of linoleum from natural components, humilax is perfect, which is made mainly of rubber and latex; it can also be suitable for those types of linoleum, the first layer of which is felt or fabric;
- for industrial premises, offices, shops and others under constant load (meaning high permeability and pressure applied to the coating), a more elastic acrylate composition is used;
- linoleum on a fabric basis will be best kept by bitumen mastic, which is a bitumen-polymer composition that can show itself well in rooms with high humidity.
You can also distinguish another type of dispersion glue, which is used extremely rarely, namely glue with good current conductivity. This glue is best suited for installing antistatic linoleum in rooms with a large number of electrical appliances.
As noted above, this type of adhesive mixture is a complex chemical compound of polyurethane and epoxy resin, which reacts with the coating, ensuring its strong connection with the base, and at the same time creating a durable and moisture resistant intermediate layer.
Of course, this type of glue costs much more than dispersion glue, and its main drawback in work may be a rather pungent smell. But it is great for fabric-based linoleum, and for industrial premises with high traffic.
Considering the fact that the reaction glue contains chemical components that are flammable, it is important to observe absolute fire safety techniques in the process of gluing and direct operation of the premises.
But if this type of glue had no advantages over the previous one, then it would hardly have remained on the market of building materials and adhesive mixtures. And we have already talked about moisture resistance, as one of these, but its durability is also worth mentioning. The result of the gluing process is an absolutely tight and very strong connection.
Cold welding is another name that is widespread among builders and denotes the very process of using a reaction adhesive. According to its technology, which depends on the quality of the coating and the degree of fixation, it is divided into three types:
type A – cold welding of this type is used to glue linoleum at the joints, providing an almost invisible seam, since it is the most liquid glue of all three in consistency;
type C is a much thicker glue, which is best suited for working with recyclable linoleum, mainly for renewing the connection between the spreading edges, gently pulling them together due to its density;
type T – used for joining PVC-based linoleum, which contains polyester.
# 2. Expenses
When choosing one or another adhesive composition, it is also important to correctly calculate the volume spent on gluing a certain amount of linoleum, which most often can be done simply by reading the instructions for the glue you have chosen. Often all the information you need, along with material consumption, can be found on the packaging itself.
No. 3. Resistance to thermal and mechanical stress
Also, when choosing an adhesive for linoleum, consider whether the resistance of the adhesive to different temperatures is important for you, or its wear resistance in terms of the pressure exerted, if, for example, you are going to glue linoleum in a “crowded” room, such as a store or office.
No. 4. Reducing the possibility of deformation
In order to increase adhesion and reduce the risk of bubbles, waves and other unwanted surface distortions, it is strongly recommended to roll the entire linoleum area after gluing. Another reason for this action can be such an important point as getting rid of possible formation of air bubbles under the material, which can often be observed when working with pasting the film.
No. 5. Types and technologies of gluing
After you have decided on the choice of linoleum and the glue that is suitable for it in all parameters, it is important to understand which of the types of gluing and how you will have to deal with, especially if you plan to carry out all the work on your own, without special or sufficient skills.
Features of cold welding
A similar method is best suited for working with household and semi-commercial linoleum, and is performed with the following sequence:
- lay the coating on the base and perform gluing;
- glue masking tape to the joints, cutting it along the seam;
- squeeze the glue from the tube into the groove, evenly distributing it along the entire length;
- after drying, remove the masking tape, and carefully remove the excess.
As a result, the joints glued using this technology are much stronger and more durable than the cold welding method, but the working process itself is a little more complicated.
Hot welding is often used in rooms with high traffic and load on the coating itself.
To work with this method, you will need: a special polymer cord, an industrial hair dryer with attachments and a knife for cutting linoleum.
The work is done in the following order:
- cut the seam with a knife to full depth and clean the edges of the canvases well;
- turn on an industrial hair dryer and set the temperature to 350 degrees Celsius;
- insert a piece of polymer cord into the nozzle and press the hair dryer nozzle over the seam, after a few seconds, the hair dryer moves evenly and smoothly along the seam;
- if necessary, so that during melting the cord evenly fills the groove, you can reduce the speed of the hair dryer and increase the temperature, etc.;
- upon completion of the procedure, the excess cord will need to be removed by cutting with a sickle knife.
Gluing linoleum to concrete
Before you start gluing it to the concrete floor, of course, you will have to calculate the required amount of material and prepare it. For greater safety, you can leave about 10 cm on each side in reserve.
The first stage of work will be the preparation of the surface, that is, the concrete base, for laying:
- thorough cleaning of floors from debris, dirt and other small objects;
- degreasing the surface;
- if there are minor external defects on the concrete floor, then it will be quite enough to treat the surface with a primer or putty;
- if, after the final check, the height difference is more than 2 cm, then you will need to fill in a new concrete screed, which, of course, will have to be carefully leveled and left to dry for a couple of weeks.
After all the preparations, you can start laying the linoleum, for which you will need the coating itself, the selected glue, a spatula, a construction knife and a roller.
For a more reliable fixation, you should perform the following steps in stages:
- flatten the linoleum, having previously laid it on the floor, and dock if there is a certain pattern on it;
- bend the edge of the strip and carefully apply the glue to the floor under it, leveling it with a spatula and returning the coating to its place, pressing it firmly;
- repeat the previous action as you go, and at the end let the glue dry, which usually takes about several days until it is completely dry.