A warm garage is a real dream of any car owner, because both the car and its driver will be comfortable there. Not only is it very inconvenient to carry out any repair work in a cold garage in winter, so low temperature negatively affects the condition of the car and leads to its rapid damage. Half measures in the form of turning on the heater do not give anything at all, since in a garage with thin walls, and they, as a rule, are just like that, the heat does not last long. If the condition of the car and the safety of its main elements are important, then it is better to take care of the insulation in time. External insulation becomes the most effective, because in this case the dew point is shifted to the insulation, and excess moisture will not accumulate in the room itself. Such insulation can be organized in several ways.
# 1. Styrofoam
Polyfoam is the most popular option for insulating a garage, and it is used for both interior and exterior work. External foam insulation is much more efficient and convenient. Firstly, the useful area of the garage is not taken away, and, secondly, there is no risk of moisture formation in the places of contact between the wall and the insulation, which often occurs with internal insulation. That is why it is not necessary to equip the forced ventilation system and keep it on all the time.
Polyfoam is ideal for insulating brick garage walls, pleases with an affordable price, lightness, therefore it does not make the entire structure heavier, it is as simple as possible to install: it is easy to cut, and the plates can be attached to the walls even on your own, without involving specialists. This type of insulation is also interesting from the point of view of absolute neutrality to moisture, since it does not absorb it, it will not become a place for the development of fungus and mold. Also, the foam perfectly tolerates temperature extremes, it has good sound absorption performance, and has a long service life.
Styrofoam has some disadvantages. So, it is better not to use it where heating from a furnace or some kind of equipment is possible. In this case, it is recommended to combine it with mineral wool, and it is even better to immediately purchase polystyrene impregnated with fire retardants, which will resist ignition and combustion. It should also be noted that the strength of the foam is not at its best, so the insulation layer must be protected immediately after installation. Typically, a fiberglass mesh is attached, and plaster is applied over it. It is better to use non-nitro-based facade paints over decorative plaster, as they can damage the foam, depriving it of its thermal insulation properties. Siding, moisture-resistant gypsum board and DSP and some other materials are also often used. It is worth noting that sheet materials in this case are attached using the construction of a frame.
# 2. Liquid polyurethane foam
Insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam is one of the most modern methods, which is almost devoid of disadvantages. In this case, the garage owner receives a monolithic layer of thermal insulation that fills in all the cracks and irregularities in the surface. This material has phenomenal thermal insulation performance, since its 1 cm thickness can replace 15 cm thick foam. It also has excellent sound insulation, because its cellular structure almost does not conduct sounds. Polyurethane foam is not subject to the action of fire, after drying it does not emit substances harmful to health, and the process of its application does not take much time. In addition, this option is also great in cases where the garage has a complex structure or some hard-to-reach places where it is difficult to mount a cotton wool roll or a foam board, but a spray bottle with liquid polyurethane foam will always creep through. The material perfectly tolerates critically low and high temperatures, without deforming at the same time, it has good adhesion to almost all surfaces, therefore it can be used with equal success for brick and metal garages. Plus, it is lightweight and durable, which makes it the most attractive insulation at the moment.
But, unfortunately, there were some drawbacks. Such material is not very cheap, and work on its application will require the involvement of professionals with special equipment. Another drawback is the fear of sunlight, therefore, when insulating the garage outside, the dried layer of insulation must be additionally protected. It can be panels, plaster or the most common paint: as a result, the garage and insulation will be protected and have an attractive appearance.
No. 3. Stone wool
As you know, mineral wool can be of several types: slag wool, glass wool and stone wool. These materials differ in the raw materials from which they are produced, and, therefore, in some properties. So, the most widespread is stone wool, which is most often meant when it comes to mineral wool.
Stone wool is a great option for insulating a garage outside. It is a material with a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, which perfectly resists high temperatures, which is important when it comes to insulating a garage. In addition, stone wool withstands the ingress of aggressive substances on it, well detains sound, has a “breathing” effect, and has a high biological resistance. It is not difficult to handle such material, but for external insulation you will have to build a frame, and since this insulation is afraid of water, you need to protect it from external influences very reliably.
For external insulation, more rigid plates are suitable than for internal, and the optimal material is with a density of 200 kg / m3. It is imperative to provide a layer of waterproofing, otherwise, after the first precipitation, mineral wool will crumple up and lose most of its thermal insulation properties. Despite some drawbacks and the fact that stone wool is more expensive than polystyrene, this type of insulation remains the most popular when it comes to outdoor garage insulation.
No. 4. Glass wool
Glass wool, as mentioned above, is a type of stone wool, but nevertheless, it is better to dwell on this type of insulation separately. Its main advantage is the price, because it costs an order of magnitude cheaper than stone wool, and it is easy to transport this material, because it is vibration-resistant, and after delivery it will take its original form, even if it was tightly rolled into a roll. In terms of some properties, this insulation is not inferior to stone wool, having good thermal insulation indicators, and many experts in terms of insulation efficiency do not see the difference between these materials, therefore they choose a cheaper option.
Trying to save money, you need to be aware that you need to work with such material extremely carefully. Yes, the installation of glass wool is almost no different from the process of insulating a garage with stone wool, because the construction of a frame is also required. But at the same time, you will have to work extremely carefully, covering the body, eyes, face, hands and any other open areas. The structure of the glass wool is such that it contains many small needle-like particles that can easily pierce the skin, respiratory tract and eyes. If you follow all safety measures, then, in principle, glass wool can be called a good competitor to basalt wool. Naturally, the layer of such insulation must be reliably covered with other materials that will protect the cotton wool itself from moisture, and the person from the negative influence of cotton wool.
No. 5. Warm plasters and paints
Warm plasters and paints are relatively new insulating materials that are best used in combination with other insulation materials. They are also able to protect the garage from the effects of snow and rain, and in some cases they can even be used as an independent insulation.
Warm paint looks no different from ordinary paint. By the way, it can also be used as a final finishing layer when insulating a garage with foam or mineral wool. 1 cm of a layer of warm paint is equal in thermal insulation to 5 cm of mineral wool, and this is a very good indicator. Such a coating prevents heat from leaving the garage, not only preventing it, but also reflecting infrared rays back into the room, and it is on this property that such an amazingly low coefficient of thermal conductivity is based.
Warm paint “sticks” well to any surface, and it can be applied in any convenient way, for example, with a brush, roller or spray, so you can reliably insulate the most difficult and hard-to-reach places with it, and do all the work yourself, according to the instructions. Such paint protects metal surfaces from corrosion, it is not afraid of moisture, has a low weight, perfectly resists the sun’s rays – all those properties that advance to the outer insulation. Moreover, this is an environmentally friendly and completely safe coating that does not burn, and when exposed to critically high temperatures, it can begin to smolder and unfold. The only disadvantage of this insulation option is that warm paint is not very cheap, but you will need a lot of it.
Warm plaster in composition and method of application resembles the usual one, only here some components have been replaced with similar ones, but with better thermal insulation values. Most often, plaster with a filler made of vermiculite is used; you can also find a similar insulation based on sawdust, expanded polystyrene, expanded clay, etc. on sale. This type of insulation can be applied to any surface, so the plaster is suitable for both stone and metal garages. A pleasant bonus – the surface before application does not need to be processed in any special way. Warm plaster has a good indicator of thermal insulation, is not afraid of moisture and sunlight, does not burn, and mold does not develop in it. All this makes it a fairly good option for external insulation, but it can be used as an independent heat insulator only in some cases. To achieve optimal thermal insulation performance in regions with harsh winters, you need to apply a decent layer of plaster, so it is better to combine it with another insulation (mineral wool or foam), because a layer thicker than 5 cm will begin to crack and fall off over time.